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Residential Under-the-Counter Ice Cube Makers

ice cube maker operates similar to a refrigerator/freezer sealed system.

The older models used R-12 and the newer models use R-134a. The ice cube maker

has a hot gas solenoid valve to harvest the ice; it allows the high pressure refrigerant

gas to bypass the condenser and flow through the condenser accumulator tube

(Figure 28-3). When the refrigerant enters the condenser accumulator, the hot gas

enters into the evaporator plate and it will evenly heat the evaporator plate so that

the ice slab will release from the evaporator plate quickly and evenly.

for ice production. The water in the reservoir will recirculate as ice is produced. The

water system will also flush away any impurities, minerals, and contaminates at the

end of the cycle. The water system will recirculate the water in the clean cycle.

the refrigeration and the water systems to operate, and controls the operating and

cleaning cycles.

Safety First

install, maintain, or repair any residential under-the-counter ice cube makers.

Any improper installation, preventive maintenance, or repairs could create a risk of

personal injury or property damage.

If you do not fully understand the installation, preventive maintenance, or repair

procedures in this chapter, or if you doubt your ability to complete the task on your

automatic ice maker, please call your service manager.

1023

CHAPTER

The following precautions should also be followed:

cube maker is plugged in.

maker.

injury.

including the grounding and electrical connections.

Before continuing, take a moment to refresh your memory on the safety procedures in

Chapter 2.

Automatic Ice Cube Makers in General

Much of the troubleshooting information in this chapter covers ice cube makers in general,

rather than specific models, in order to present a broad overview of service techniques. The

illustrations that are used in this chapter are for demonstration purposes only, to clarify the

description of how to service ice cube makers. They in no way reflect a particular brand’s

reliability.

Type 1-Self-Contained Ice Cube Maker

This type of ice cube maker is a freestanding, self-contained refrigeration appliance that

produces a slab of ice, which is then cut into ice cubes (Figure 28-1). The production of ice

cubes is all done automatically, and the entire mechanism is stored within the ice cube

maker cabinet. The self-contained ice cube maker can also be installed under the counter.

The thickness of the ice cubes can be adjusted by the thickness control, located on the

control panel. This ice cube maker can produce up to 50 pounds of ice cubes in a 24-hour

period. The amount of ice cubes will vary, depending on where it is installed, the room

temperature, and the supply water temperature.

Principles of Operation

In the freeze cycle, water flows constantly, and it is recirculated over the evaporator freeze

plate until a slab of ice is formed (Figure 28-2). When the ice slab reaches a predetermined

thickness, the evaporator freeze plate temperature is sensed by the thermostat and the

freeze cycle is terminated. At that point, the defrost cycle will begin to release the ice slab

from the evaporator freeze plate. The ice slab will slide down onto the cutter grid, which

cuts the ice slab into ice cubes. At the same time, the ice maker has automatically switched

back into the freeze cycle.

When the defrost cycle begins, the remaining water in the water tank reservoir is

discarded through the overflow tube. At that point, fresh water will enter through the water

valve and go into the water tank reservoir.

PART VI

Controls

Ice cube

storage bin

Compressor and

condenser and

fan motor

FIGURE 28-1

The self-contained

ice cube maker.

Water inlet tube

Water valve

Water inlet valve

supply tube

Evaporator

freeze plate

Ice cube

storage bin

Ice

Water

Drain

Water pump

and motor

Water tank

reservoir

CAUTION!

Be certain that

the outlet end of

the water inlet tube

is inside the water

Cutter return pan as shown.

grid

The refrigeration cycle (Figure 28-3) in this type of ice maker is similar to that in

a conventional refrigerator/freezer. The compressor pumps the refrigerant into the

condenser coil, which is cooled by a fan and motor. The refrigerant leaves the condenser

coil as a high-pressure liquid, passes through the dryer, and enters the capillary tube.

The refrigerant is next metered through the capillary tube and then enters the evaporator

freeze plate. The refrigerant gas then leaves the evaporator freeze plate and returns to the

compressor.

When the ice maker goes into the defrost cycle, it energizes the hot gas solenoid, which

reverses the refrigeration cycle, during which the condenser fan motor and water pump will

stop. The hot gas passes through the evaporator freeze plate, heating it up enough to release

the ice slab. The thermostat senses the temperature of the evaporator freeze plate again and

activates the freeze cycle. The hot gas solenoid valve will then close, the water valve will

close, the condenser fan motor will start, the water pump will start, and the freeze cycle will

begin to manufacture a new slab of ice.

Compressor

High-pressure gas

High-pressure gas

condensing to liquid

High-pressure liquid

Low-pressure liquid

Liquid line Low-pressure gas

Suction tube

Drier Heat exchanger

Capillary tube

Evaporator

Hot gas

valve

Hot gas valve

(open in release cycle)

Condenser

A pictorial view of a

refrigeration system.

PART VI

Step-by-Step Troubleshooting by Symptom Diagnosis

When servicing the type-1-self-contained ice cube maker, don’t overlook the simple things

that might be causing the problem. Step-by-step troubleshooting by symptom diagnosis is

based on diagnosing malfunctions, with possible causes arranged into categories relating to

the operation of the automatic ice maker. This section is intended only as a checklist to aid

you in diagnosing a problem. Look at the symptom that best describes the problem you

are experiencing with the automatic ice maker, and then correct the problem.

Compressor Will Not Run and There Is No Ice in the Storage Bin

Fahrenheit?

Compressor Runs, but There Is No Ice in Storage Bin

Ice Storage Bin Is Full of Ice and the Compressor Runs Continuously

Low Ice Production

Fahrenheit?

inch thick.

circulating over the evaporator freeze plate.

Excessive Water Dripping on the Ice Cubes

Ice Cubes Are Too Thin

Ice Cubes Are Too Thick

The Condenser Fan Will Not Run During the Freeze Cycle

Water Pump Will Not Run

PART VI

Water Tank Is Empty

into the tank.

Treating the Water

In the freeze cycle, as the water passes over the evaporator freeze plate, the impurities in the

water are rejected and only the pure water will stick to the plate. The more dissolved solids

that are present in the water, the longer the freezing cycle. Bicarbonates, which are found in

the water, are the most troublesome of all impurities. These impurities can cause:

If the impurities become too concentrated in the water system, they can cause cloudy

cubes and/or mushy ice.

All of the water system parts that come in direct contact with the water might become

corroded if the water supply is high in acidity. The water might have to be treated in order

to overcome problems with the mineral content. The most economical way to treat the

water supply is with a polyphosphate feeder. This feeder is installed in the water inlet

supply to prevent scale buildup. This will require less frequent cleaning of the ice maker. To

install one of these feeders, follow the manufacturer’s recommendations in order to treat the

water satisfactorily.

Cleaning Instructions for the Type-1 Ice Cube Maker

The manufacturer of this type of ice cube maker recommends that the ice maker be cleaned

occasionally to help combat lime and mineral deposit buildup.

To clean the water system parts and the evaporator freeze plate, turn off the ice maker

with the cycle switch. Open the bin door, and remove the cutter grid by removing the two

thumb screws. Unplug the cutter grid, and remove it from the storage bin (Figure 28-4).

A drain plug is located under the water tank. Remove it to drain the water out of the tank

(Figure 28-5). After all of the water has been removed, reinstall the plug. Pour half a gallon

of hot water into the tank, and set the switch to “clean.” The hot water will circulate

through the water pump assembly and over the evaporator freeze plate, including all the

water system components. Let the water circulate for five minutes, and then drain the water

out of the tank. Replace the plug. Mix ice machine cleaner with half a gallon of hot water,

and pour it into the water tank. If you use a recognized ice machine cleaner, follow the

instructions on the label for best results. If you would rather prepare your own solution,

add six ounces of citric acid and phosphoric acid to half a gallon of hot water, and pour into

the water tank. Turn the switch to “clean,” and circulate this solution for 20 minutes or

longer; then drain the water. Follow with two clean water rinses that circulate for five

minutes, and then drain the water again.

Remove the splash guard, the water dispenser tube, and the plastic water pump tank.

Place them in a solution of mild laundry bleach for five minutes, and then rinse. Use one

ounce of bleach to one gallon of hot water. Be sure the water temperature does not exceed

145 degrees Fahrenheit—it could damage the plastic parts. Finally, sanitize the ice bin, door,

ice cube scoop, grid panel, and grid with a bleach solution.

Reinstall all parts in the reverse order of disassembly, and test the ice machine operation.

After the cleaning treatment, apply a release agent to the evaporator plate. This will retard

any future buildup of scale and mineral deposits, and it will make the plate more slippery,

which will provide for better ice slab release.

To clean the condenser coil, remove the screws that secure the front grille, and then

remove the grille (Figure 28-6). Vacuum all lint and dust from the coil and from the

surrounding area (Figure 28-7). Reinstall the grille. The frequency of cleaning will be

determined by the surrounding conditions.

low

med

high

Thumb screws

Electrical

harness

disconnecting the electrical harness, and pulling the

cutter grid out of the bin.

Thumb screws

Water tank Drain

hose

Drain

plug

storage bin.

PART VI

Prevention of Water-Utilizing System Explosions

In certain water-utilizing refrigeration systems, water can leak into the refrigerant side of

the system. This can lead to an explosion of system components, including but not limited

to the compressor. If such an explosion occurs, the resulting blast can kill or seriously injure

anyone in the vicinity.

Systems at Risk of Explosion

Water-utilizing systems that have single-wall heat exchangers may present a risk of

explosion. Such systems may include:

Water-utilizing systems that have single-wall heat exchangers present a risk of

explosion, unless they have one of the following:

How an Explosion Occurs

If the refrigerant tubing in the heat exchanger develops a leak, water can enter the refrigerant

side of the system. This water can come in contact with live electrical connections in the

compressor, causing a short circuit or a path to ground. When this occurs, extremely high

temperatures can result. The heat buildup creates steam vapor that can cause excessive

pressure throughout the entire system. This system pressure can lead to an explosion of the

compressor or other system components.

screws located on the toe panel section.

Condenser coil

Deflector

Grille

panel

Service Procedures

In light of the risk of explosion, be especially alert for signs of water leaking into the refrigerant

side of the system. Whenever servicing or troubleshooting a water-utilizing system, always

check to see if it has either a pressure-relief valve or a high-pressure cutout as previously

look for indications that water has leaked into the refrigerant side of the system. These

indications may include:

leaked into the refrigerant side:

Step 1: Check for a Ground Fault (a Short to Ground)

electrocution, and terminal venting with ignition, do not energize a compressor that

has a ground fault. Mark and red-tag the compressor to indicate that there is a

ground fault. Do not reconnect the power leads. Tape and insulate each power lead

separately. Proceed to step 2. Do not replace the compressor or energize the system

before performing step 2.

Step 2: Check for Water in the System

Once the compressor is cool to the touch, open the system process valve slightly to see

compressor is hot can cause severe burns from steam coming out of the valve. If any water

a Single-Wall Water-Utilizing System.”

If water does not come out of the process valve, there is still a possibility that some water

has leaked into the refrigerant side of the system. To address this possibility, determine if the

system has a history of losing refrigerant charge without a leak being found or repaired.

leak, this is a sign that refrigerant has leaked into the water inside the heat exchanger. The

System.”

PART VI

If you do not find any indication of a history of loss of charge without detection of

a leak, you still need to install one of the following:

Also, if you found a ground fault in the compressor in step 1, replace the compressor

before applying power to the system.

Replacing a Single-Wall Water-Utilizing System

When replacing a single-wall water-utilizing system, replace the system with one that has

one of the following:

Repair Procedures

Each repair procedure is a complete inspection and repair process for a single ice cube

maker component, containing the information you need to test and replace components.

The actual repair or replacement of any sealed-system component is not included in this

chapter. It is recommended that you acquire refrigerant certification (or call an authorized

service company) to repair or replace any sealed-system component. The refrigerant in the

sealed system must be recovered properly.

Type-1 Ice Cube Maker Compressor, Relay, and Overload Protector

The compressor (reciprocating type) is the heart of the vapor compression system. It is used

to circulate the refrigerant throughout the sealed system. The relay and overload are attached

to the compressor. The relay starts the compressor and the overload protects the compressor.

All three components are located in the machine compartment in the rear or front of the ice

maker. The relay can be either a current or a PTC (positive temperature coefficient) type

device. The overload is a bimetal switch that is secured to the outer shell of the compressor.

The typical complaints associated with failure of the compressor, relay, and overload

protector are:

To handle these problems, perform the following steps:

the ice maker is doing. It will be helpful if you can locate the actual service manual

for the ice maker model you are working on to properly diagnose the ice maker.

The service manual will assist you in properly placing the ice maker in the service

test mode for testing the ice maker functions.

the appliance. Is the appliance installed properly? Does the ice maker have the

correct voltage? The voltage at the wall receptacle is between 108 volts and 132 volts

during a load on the circuit. Do you have the correct polarity? (See Chapter 6.)

electricity. This can be done by pulling the plug from the receptacle. Or disconnect

the electricity at the fuse panel or at the circuit breaker panel. Turn off the electricity.

remove the front grille. Remove the two screws in the condensing unit base, and

pull the unit toward you. Be careful to not damage any refrigerant lines. Next,

remove the compressor terminal cover (Figure 28-8) by removing the retaining clip

that secures the cover. Remove the terminal cover.

it from the compressor terminals without twisting it (Figure 28-9). On the relay

body is stamped the word TOP. Hold the relay so that TOP is in the up position.

Next, place the probes of the ohmmeter on the relay terminals marked S and M. Set

probe from the terminal marked M, and place the probe on the side terminal

marked L. The reading will show no continuity. Now, move the probe from terminal

S, and place it on the terminal marked M. The reading will show continuity. With

the probes still attached, turn the relay upside down (see Figure 25-35b), and

Compressor

Overload protector

Relay

Retaining clip

Terminal cover

FIGURE 28-8

A pictorial view of

compressor, overload,

and relay.

PART VI

perform the same tests. By turning the relay over, the switch contacts in the relay

will close. When you retest the relay, you should get the opposite results. You should

have continuity between terminals S and M and between S and L. The meter will not

show continuity between M and L. If the relay fails this test, replace it.

the overload protector and compressor terminals. Then remove the overload

protector (from the compressor) by removing the retaining clip that secures the

overload protector (Figure 28-10). Next, place the probes of the ohmmeter on the

continuity. If not, replace the overload protector.

protector. This will expose the compressor terminals. The compressor terminals are

marked C, S, and R: C indicates the common winding terminal, S indicates the start

winding terminal, and R indicates the run winding terminal. Next, place the probes of

the ohmmeter on the terminals marked S and R (Figure 28-11). Set the meter scale on

show continuity. Now place the meter probes on the terminals marked C and S. The

meter reading will show continuity. Finally, place the meter probes on the terminals

marked C and R. The meter reading will show continuity. The total number of ohms

measured between S and R is equal to the sum of C to S plus C to R.

To test the compressor for ground, place one probe on a compressor terminal and the

other probe on the compressor housing or on any good ground (Figure 28-12). Set the meter

two terminals. The meter reading will show no continuity. If you get a continuity reading

from any of these terminals to ground, the compressor is grounded and must be replaced.

Compressor

Compressor

relay

Overload protector Clip

Be careful not to break the compressor pins.

Bin Thermostat

The bin thermostat is located behind the control panel (Figure 28-14). The thermostat

sensing bulb is located in the ice maker bin compartment. It will sense how much ice is in

the storage bin.

The typical complaints associated with bin thermostat failure are:

To handle these problems, perform the following steps:

and the control settings. It will be helpful if you can locate the actual service manual

for the ice maker model you are working on to properly diagnose the ice maker. The

service manual will assist you in properly placing the ice maker in the service test

mode for testing the ice maker functions.

the appliance. Is the appliance installed properly? Explain to the user how to set the

controls. The voltage at the wall receptacle is between 108 volts and 132 volts

during a load on the circuit. Do you have the correct polarity? (See Chapter 6.)

This can be done by pulling the plug from the receptacle. Or disconnect the electricity

at the fuse panel or at the circuit breaker panel. Turn off the electricity.

Terminal pin

C

S

R

PART VI

from the escutcheon (Figure 28-13), and remove the panel. Next, remove the screws

from the control bracket (Figure 28-14). Pull back on the control bracket, exposing

the controls.

thermostat terminals and place the ohmmeter probes on those terminals (Figure 28-15).

between the contacts if the temperature of the capillary tube is above 42 degrees

Fahrenheit. The meter should not read continuity between the contacts if the

temperature of the capillary tube is below 36 degrees Fahrenheit.

removing the two screws (see Figure 28-13). Remove the bin thermostat well from

the left wall of the liner. Next, remove the five clips (under the gasket) from the left

side of the liner (Figure 28-16). Now, bend the liner flange forward, and remove the

capillary tube and thermostat control.

order of disassembly, and reassemble. Then test the control. Remember to reinstall

the capillary tube in the same location from which it was removed. If you do not,

the ice maker will not cycle properly.

Evaporator Thermostat

The evaporator thermostat is located behind the control panel (Figure 28-14). The thermostat’s

capillary tube is attached to the evaporator freeze plate. The purpose of the evaporator

thermostat is to end the freeze cycle and initiate the harvest cycle when the ice thickness

has been reached.

Screw location

low

med

hi

FIGURE 28-13

Removing the control

panel to expose the

controls.

The typical complaints associated with failure of the evaporator thermostat are:

To handle these problems, perform the following steps:

and the control settings. It will be helpful if you can locate the actual service manual

for the ice maker model you are working on to properly diagnose the ice maker. The

service manual will assist you in properly placing the ice maker in the service test

mode for testing the ice maker functions.

Cycle switch

Control bracket

Escutcheon

Control

knobs

Washer

Door latch

Screw

Transformer

Fuse Fuse

holder

Grid

harness

Bin

thermostat

Evaporator

thermostat

PART VI

the appliance. Is the appliance installed properly? Explain to the user how to set the

controls. The voltage at the wall receptacle is between 108 volts and 132 volts

during a load on the circuit. Do you have the correct polarity? (See Chapter 6.)

This can be done by pulling the plug from the receptacle. Or disconnect the electricity

at the fuse panel or at the circuit breaker panel. Turn off the electricity.

Multitester

Cold

FIGURE 28-15

The bin thermostat.

FIGURE 28-16

Peel back the liner to

gain access to the

capillary tube.

Capillary

tube

Bend

back

liner

Cutter

grid

remove the screws from the escutcheon (see Figure 28-13), and remove the panel.

Next, remove the screws from the control bracket (see Figure 28-14). Pull back on

the control bracket, exposing the controls.

from the thermostat terminals, and place the ohmmeter probes on terminals 1 and 2

show continuity between the contacts if the temperature of the evaporator freeze

plate is 30 degrees Fahrenheit or warmer. The meter should not read continuity

degrees Fahrenheit. By disconnecting the water pump at the terminal board and

operating the ice maker without the pump, the evaporator thermostat action can be

easily observed. This will cause the thermostat to cycle in a matter of a few minutes.

thumbscrews (see Figure 28-4). Remove the evaporator thermostat from the

control bracket by removing the two screws (see Figure 28-14). Remove the clamp

from underneath the evaporator freeze plate, which secures the capillary tube to

the evaporator. Next, remove the five clips, under the gasket, from the left side of

the liner (see Figure 28-16). Now, bend the liner flange forward, and remove the

capillary tube and thermostat control.

Multitester

FIGURE 28-17

The evaporator

thermostat.

PART VI

reverse the order of disassembly, and reassemble. Then test the control. Remember

to reinstall the capillary tube in the same location from which it was removed. Also,

the capillary tube must be taped to the hot gas restrictor tube. If you do not do these

things, the ice maker will not cycle properly.

Hot Gas Solenoid Valve

The hot gas solenoid valve allows the high pressure refrigerant gas to bypass the condenser

and flow through the condenser accumulator tube (Figure 28-3). When the refrigerant enters

the condenser accumulator, the hot gas enters into the evaporator plate and it will evenly

heat the evaporator plate so that the ice slab will release from the evaporator plate quickly

and evenly. The hot gas solenoid valve is accessed through the rear of the ice maker on

some older models. On newer models the hot gas valve is located behind the condenser coil.

The typical complaints associated with failure of the hot gas solenoid valve are:

To handle these problems, perform the following steps:

be helpful if you can locate the actual service manual for the ice maker model you

are working on to properly diagnose the ice maker. The service manual will assist

you in properly placing the ice maker in the service test mode for testing the ice

maker functions.

the appliance. Is the appliance installed properly? Explain to the user how to set the

controls. The voltage at the wall receptacle is between 108 volts and 132 volts

during a load on the circuit. Do you have the correct polarity? (See Chapter 6.)

This can be done by pulling the plug from the receptacle. Or disconnect the electricity

at the fuse panel or at the circuit breaker panel. Turn off the electricity.

(Figure 28-18), remove the grille (see Figure 28-6). Next, remove the deflector from

the condenser (see Figure 28-7).

Remove the wires from the solenoid coil. Place the ohmmeter probes on the solenoid

Solenoid

coil

Hot gas

valve

LED

Push-button

switches

Light

switch

Low-voltage

transformer

Evaporator

plate

Cutter

grid

Water

recirculating

pump

Compressor

Condenser

fan

Hot gas valve

(behind condenser)

Water inlet

valve

Condenser

Electronic

control

board

FIGURE 28-18

The hot gas defrost

valve. This valve will

reverse the low of

refrigerant to the

evaporator in the

defrost cycle.

thermistors. This model has the hot gas valve located behind the condenser coil. Also, the water inlet

valve is located on the left side of the condenser coil.

PART VI

for continuity. To test the hot gas valve itself, connect a 120-volt fused service cord

(Figure 28-20) to the solenoid coil. Listen for a click sound as the plunger rises up.

Now, disconnect the service cord, and you will hear the plunger drop back. If you

cannot hear a distinct click sound from the hot gas valve, it will need to be replaced

by an authorized service company (the sealed system might be under warranty from

the manufacturer) or by a licensed refrigerant technician.

The solenoid coil is a separate component that can be replaced without replacing

the entire hot gas valve assembly. Another way to test the hot gas valve is to

leave the wires off the solenoid coil and reconnect the service cord to the solenoid

coil. This test requires the electricity to be turned on.

With the ice maker plugged in and running, feel the hot gas defrost tube—it should

feel warm or hot when the valve is energized.

spring clip from the top of the coil, and then remove the coil (be sure the electricity

is off).

order of disassembly, and reassemble. Then test the valve.

On/Off

switch

Male plug

with ground

Grounded to

electrical box

20-amp

resettable fuse

120-volt

receptacle

6-foot

service cord

120-volt fused

service cord

Electrical box

24-inch

test leads

Three rubber insulated

NEC color-coded

alligator clips

Water Valve

The water inlet valve controls the flow of water into the ice cube maker, and is solenoid-operated.

When it is energized, water in the supply line will pass through the valve body and into

the water reservoir.

The typical complaints associated with failure of the water valve are:

To handle these problems, perform the following steps:

be helpful if you can locate the actual service manual for the ice maker model you

are working on to properly diagnose the ice maker. The service manual will assist

you in properly placing the ice maker in the service test mode for testing the ice

maker functions.

the appliance. Is the appliance installed properly? Explain to the user how to set the

controls. Is the water supply turned on? The voltage at the wall receptacle is

between 108 volts and 132 volts during a load on the circuit. Do you have the

correct polarity? (See Chapter 6.)

electricity. This can be done by pulling the plug from the receptacle. Or disconnect

the electricity at the fuse panel or at the circuit breaker panel. Turn off the electricity.

panel. The water valve is located in the upper-right front corner (older models). On

newer models, the water valve is located next to the condenser (Figure 28-19).

water valve must be removed from the storage bin. Shut off the water supply to the

ice maker. Now disconnect the water line from the valve. Next, remove the screws

from the water valve bracket. Pull on the valve to release it from the receptacle in

the liner. Place the ohmmeter probes on the solenoid coil terminals (Figure 28-21).

the water valve.

disassembly, and reassemble. Then test the valve. Don’t forget to turn on the water

supply.

PART VI

Condenser Fan Motor

The condenser fan motor is a 120 VAC, single-speed fan motor. The condenser fan motor is

located near the compressor in the machine compartment in the rear of the ice cube maker.

The condenser fan motor, when operating, will pull air across the condenser coil and then

exhaust it past the compressor and out through the rear of the ice cube maker. The condenser

fan will remove the heat from the condenser coil.

The typical complaints associated with failure of the condenser fan motor are:

To handle these problems, perform the following steps:

the ice maker is doing. Is the condenser fan motor running during the freeze cycle?

It will be helpful if you can locate the actual service manual for the ice maker model

you are working on to properly diagnose the ice maker. The service manual will

assist you in properly placing the ice maker in the service test mode for testing the

ice maker functions.

the appliance. Is the appliance installed properly? Are there any foreign objects

blocking the condenser fan blades? The voltage at the wall receptacle is between

108 volts and 132 volts during a load on the circuit. Do you have the correct

polarity? (See Chapter 6.)

Multitester

FIGURE 28-21

The water valve.

electricity to the ice maker. This can be done by pulling the plug from the receptacle.

Or disconnect the electricity at the fuse panel or at the circuit breaker panel. Turn off

the electricity.

the front grille. Remove the two screws in the condensing unit base, and pull the

unit toward you. Be careful not to damage any refrigerant lines.

from the motor terminals. Next, place the probes of the ohmmeter on the motor

resistance. If no reading is indicated, replace the motor. If the fan blades do not spin

freely, replace the motor. If the bearings are worn, replace the motor.

first remove the fan blades. Unscrew the nut that secures the blades to the motor.

Remove the blades from the motor. Then remove the motor assembly by removing

the mounting bracket screws (Figure 28-23).

reverse the order of disassembly, and reassemble. Remember to reconnect the

ground wire to the motor. Reconnect the wires to the motor terminals, and test.

Multitester

Motor

bracket

Motor

Fan blade

Screw Screw

Fan motor plug

condenser fan motor assembly.

PART VI

Water Pump

The water pump will circulate the water from the water tank across the evaporator freezing

plate (Figure 28-2). It is located behind the water tank (Figure 28-5) on the right side.

The typical complaints associated with failure of the water pump are:

To handle these problems, perform the following steps:

be helpful if you can locate the actual service manual for the ice maker model you

are working on to properly diagnose the ice maker. The service manual will assist

you in properly placing the ice maker in the service test mode for testing the ice

maker functions.

the appliance. Is the appliance installed properly? Explain to the user how to set the

controls. The voltage at the wall receptacle is between 108 volts and 132 volts

during a load on the circuit. Do you have the correct polarity? (See Chapter 6.)

electricity. This can be done by pulling the plug from the receptacle. Or disconnect

the electricity at the fuse panel or at the circuit breaker panel. Turn off the electricity.

front insulated panel, and the inner bin door. A drain plug is located under the

water tank. Remove it to drain the water out of the tank (see Figure 28-5). Next,

remove the thumbscrews that secure the water tank, and remove the tank.

the probes of the ohmmeter on the motor terminals (Figure 28-24). Set the meter

replace the water pump. Next, check the motor with a 120-volt fused service cord

(see Figure 28-20).

screws from the water pump bracket that secure the pump to the liner. Disconnect

the discharge hose from the pump. Remove the water pump.

disassembly, and reassemble. Reconnect the wires to the motor terminals, and test.

Cutter Grid

The cutter grid is located inside the storage bin

(Figure 28-4). It is used for cutting the ice slab into

ice cubes.

The typical complaints associated with failure of

the cutter grid are:

evenly.

To handle these problems, perform the following

steps:

checking the ice slab and cutter grid fuse. It will

be helpful if you can locate the actual service

manual for the ice maker model you are working

on to properly diagnose the ice maker. The

service manual will assist you in properly placing

the ice maker in the service test mode for testing

the ice maker functions.

Sealing washer

Mounting Grommets

bracket

Pump

impeller

Motor

Multitester

pump. When checking the pump, be sure the

inlet is free of debris.

PART VI

the appliance. Is the appliance installed properly? Explain to the user how to set the

controls. The voltage at the wall receptacle is between 108 volts and 132 volts during

a load on the circuit. Do you have the correct polarity? (See Chapter 6.)

This can be done by pulling the plug from the receptacle. Or disconnect the electricity

at the fuse panel or at the circuit breaker panel. Turn off the electricity.

remove the cutter grid by removing the two thumbscrews. Unplug the cutter grid,

and remove it from the storage bin (see Figure 28-4).

connecting pins for corrosion (Figure 28-26). As you inspect the cutter grid, look for

cracked or broken insulators in the frame. Next, place the probes of the ohmmeter

meter should show continuity. If no reading is indicated, one or more grid wires or

insulators are defective.

be advisable to replace the entire cutter grid. Using a C-clamp, compress the spring

clip to relieve the tension (Figure 28-28). Next, use a pair of pliers to compress the

adjacent spring clip, and remove the buss bar. Do the same procedure for the other

side of the cutter grid. The insulators, clips, and grid wires can now be removed

and replaced. If any of the grid wires break, it is time to replace all of the grid wires.

disassembly, and reassemble. Reconnect the wires to the cutter grid, and test it.

FIGURE 28-26

A cutter grid cuts an

ice slab into strips

and then into cubes.

Cutter Grid Transformer and Fuse

The cutter grid transformer and fuse are located behind the control panel. Low voltage is

used on the cutter grid to cut up the ice slab.

The typical complaints associated with failure of the grid transformer or fuse are:

To handle these problems, perform the following steps:

It will be helpful if you can locate the actual service manual for the ice maker model

you are working on to properly diagnose the ice maker. The service manual will

assist you in properly placing the ice maker in the service test mode for testing the

ice maker functions.

the appliance. Is the appliance installed properly? The voltage at the wall receptacle

is between 108 volts and 132 volts during a load on the circuit. Do you have the

correct polarity? (See Chapter 6.)

Multitester

Supporting

frame

Cutter

grid wire

Insulator

Spring

clip

Buss bar

circuit.

the clips, buss bars, and insulators.

PART VI

electricity. This can be done by pulling the plug from the receptacle. Or disconnect

the electricity at the fuse panel or at the circuit breaker panel. Turn off the electricity.

transformer and fuse, remove the screws from the escutcheon (see Figure 28-13), and

remove the panel. The fuse is located on the control bracket on the left side. To

remove the fuse, push in and twist—it will pop out of the holder (Figure 28-29).

Next, remove the screws from the control bracket (see Figure 28-14). Pull back on the

control bracket, exposing the controls.

wires from the transformer to isolate it from the circuit. Use a 120-volt fused service

cord, and connect it to the primary side of the transformer.

You might have to look at the wiring diagram for assistance in identifying the

primary side and for the proper color-coding of the wires. Using the volt meter,

connect the probes to the secondary side of the transformer. Plug in the 120-volt

fused service cord; the meter should read 8.5 volts. Unplug the service cord.

Place the probes on the primary wires of the transformer. The meter should show

resistance. Next, place the probes on the secondary wires of the transformer

(Figure 28-30). The meter should show resistance. If the transformer fails either

test, replace it.

Fuse—Push

in and twist

FIGURE 28-